Pry Bar
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Pry Bar
Simple Steps For Hardwood Floor Installation
Hardwood floors are classy and add natural beauty at home like no other synthetic materials can. They can work anywhere around the home and if carefully maintained; can look great even after long years.
There are different hardwood floors categorized under first second or third classes. The most popular choice aside from birch and maple is oak. Oak wood can be classified as:
a. Clear - the wood has smooth or very few marks on the surface.
b. Select - woods which has few blemishes but the surface is bright.
c. Common No. 1 woods - have several flaws and the color is uneven.
d. Common No. 2 hardwoods - have numerous marks, there are little holes and the color is also uneven.
Woods can further be classified according to width. Strip floors are two and three fourth inches wide while plank flooring is generally wider with a width of seven inches.
Consider the grade of the floor to be used to add warmth to a room.
Hardwoods can be installed in a horizontal or vertical position, over plywood or above an already existing wooden floor. You can install the woods with the use of hammer, board nails, glue, stapler, etc. There are also floors nowadays with tape strips on their back. Here are the steps on the installation process:
1. The wood should be adjusted to the level of humidity or climate of the room where it will be installed. Pile the woods indoor for at least three days during damp weather to be sure that it is dry before installation.
2. Prepare your materials: (hammer) pull over hammer is also used at times to remove hollow spaces on the floor, nails, pry bar, screws, saw, etc.
3. Be sure that the floor to be installed is a clean and smooth level. Layer the floor first with plywood or other sub floorings. This is recommended for more durability.
4. Draw a reference line on where you will start and end the installation. It is essential to have at least 1/2 inch gap to give space for wood expansion. Test fit the boards to make sure that the floor will have a good form.
5. Carefully choose the straightest boards as first pieces for installation. These pieces would be put first on the focal points like the door area. Aligning the first row guarantees more straight rows subsequently. Face- nail or nail the first row on the top of the board and drill holes at the ends to serve as connection points for series of woods along the stretch.
6. When doing the second and succeeding rows, hammer it hard when joining and interlocking each edge before nailing it down to have a tighter fit. All the boards must be perpendicular to avoid the gaps that can be greatly visible and ugly. Accuracy is vital here!
7. Upon reaching the last row, use pry and block bar to lock the last woods in place. Drill holes on positions where baseboard will be placed and set them in place by nails. Installing hardwoods over large areas requires a heavy mallet of nails on each edge at the end of the third row. Be very careful not to scratch or damage the floor however.
8. There will be those portions on the end row wherein you will find it hard to install additional rows; using ring- shank nails will perfectly work on these areas of the floor.
9. Screw the last two rows of hardwood on the floor.
10. Complete the installation by checking for any flaws on the floor; if it has gaps, try to push the hardwood using a pry bar. Decorative borders can also be applied afterwards.
Hardwood can be installed at any part of the house but many home owners choose not to use these flooring in their bathroom because it can contract and rot when it is moisted. The technique is to give it a protective coat and a sturdy finish.
Installing hardwood floors will only take three to four hours of laborious work. The key to achieving good flooring is assuring that the first rows are straight. Using good class of hardwood will also be beneficial because it will last longer.
About the Author
Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.refinishing-hardwood-floors.com where you can learn more about
selecting, installing and refinishing hardwood floors
.
How do I change the belts on a 2002 Toyota Sienna V6?
I was expecting to find a single serpentine belt with an automatic tensioner pulley. I have changed serpentine belts on many models with no problem. But this Sienna has two belts, not one. One belt drives the power steering pump. The second belt drives the alternator and A/C. I don't see a tensioner pulley on either belt. Do these belts work like old-fashioned V-belts belts where you tension them by loosening something (like the alternator) and then using a pry bar to tighten the belt? I can barely see the power steering pump so it looks pretty tight, I welcome advice from anybody who knows this model. Thanks.
loosen the 14mm bolt on top of alternator. loosen 12mm bolt below alternator sitting sideways. adjust belt tension with 10mm bolt running through previous 12mm.
loosen 12mm bolt on top of power steering pump. underneath vehicle loosen a 12mm bolt below p/s pump pull on belt to relieve tension, and pry carefully to increase tension.
a bit of advice when reinstalling belts, the belt tension has to be just so, too tight and you will wreck the bearings in both pump and alt., too loose and the belts will squeal they have to be just right.
